ÅLAND ARCHIPELAGO

Åland Archipelago is a geopolitical anomaly: it is Finnish owned and Swedish speaking, but it has its own parliament, flies its own blue, gold and red flag, issues its own stamps and uses its own web suffix: ‘dot ax’. Its ‘special relationship' with the EU means it can sell duty-free and make its own gambling laws. Åland is the sunniest spot in northern Europe and its sweeping white-sand beaches and flat, scenic cycling routes attract crowds of holidaymakers during summer. Yet outside the lively capital, Mariehamn, a sleepy haze hangs over the islands’ tiny villages: finding your own remote beach among the 6500 skerries (rocky islets) is surprisingly easy. A lattice of bridges and free cable ferries connects the central islands, while larger car ferries run to the archipelago’s outer reaches.

• The capital of Åland, Mariehamn was named by Alexander II after Empress Maria, and its broad streets lined with linden trees recall its Russian heritage. Nowadays it's a lively, touristy place and during summer, visitors flood the bike paths, tour boats and pavement cafes. The summer calendar is jam-packed with music festivals and cultural fairs, and people stay out all night soaking up the midnight sun. Although two out of every five Ålanders live and work in Mariehamn, in summer, this workaday world fades into the background as holidaymakers take over the town.

• Sund is situated 30km from Mariehamn, just east of the main island group. It's connected to Saltvik by a bridge, but it's still a long haul from the capital. It's worth the trip, however, as Sund is home to Åland's highlight attractions: the muscular medieval castle Kastelholm and the battle-scarred ruins of the Russian stronghold at Bomarsund.

• On the far-western edge of mainland Åland, Eckerö is the archipelago's closest point to mainland Sweden – just a two-hour ferry ride from Grisslehamn. While the island maintains an off-the-beaten-track atmosphere, it does contain a handful of excellent accommodation options and some offbeat but interesting sights. Eckerö is also home to Åland's loveliest stretch of sand at Degersand beach.

SOUTHWESTERN FINLAND

• Set between two vast lakes, scenic Tampere has a down-to-earth vitality and pronounced cultural focus that make it a favourite for many visitors. The Tammerkoski rapids churn through the centre, flanked by grassy banks that stand in contrast with the red brick of the imposing fabric mills that once drove the city's economy. Regenerated industrial buildings now house quirky museums, enticing shops, pubs, cinemas and cafes.

• Dominated by its namesake castle, Hämeenlinna is Finland's oldest inland town, founded in 1649, though a trading post had existed here since the 9th century. The Swedes built the castle in the 13th century, and Hämeenlinna developed into an administrative, educational and garrison town around it. The town is quiet but picturesque, and its wealth of museums will keep you busy for a day or two. It makes a good stop between Helsinki and Tampere.

• Centred on its lively kauppatori (market square), Rauma’s Old Town district, Vanha Rauma, is the largest preserved wooden town in the Nordic countries. The main pleasure here is simply meandering the quaint streets of this Unesco World Heritage site. In the Middle Ages, Rauma’s lacemakers ignored King Gustav Wasa’s order to move to Helsinki to boost the capital’s industry. By the 18th century, Rauma was a thriving trade centre, thanks to the European fashion for lace-trimmed bonnets. Locals still turn out the delicate material and celebrate their lacemaking heritage with an annual festival. There are more than 600 18th- and 19th-century wooden buildings here, each with its own name – look for small oval nameplates near the door.

• Just 45 nautical miles from Sweden, the city of Vaasa has a significant Swedophone population, with a quarter of residents speaking Swedish as a first language. Vaasa has long been a family-holiday playground, with plenty of outdoor recreation and easy access to the Kvarken Archipelago. It's a cultural centre as well, with three universities and a thriving arts scene, exemplified by its excellent museums.

• In 1652, war widow Ebba Braha founded the town of Jakobstad in honour of her husband, Swedish war hero Jacob de la Gardie. The site was previously the harbour of the parish of the Pedersöre Kyrka. The church still stands today, lending its name to the town's Finnish name, Pietarsaari. But the Swedish identity runs deep, as more than half the population are Swedophone. Jakobstad's main attraction is its Skata (Old Town), which stretches for several blocks north of the centre. It contains some 300 of the best-preserved wooden houses in Finland, with the picturesque Gamla Hamn (Old Port) beyond.

LAKELAND & KARELIA

Most of Finland could be probably be dubbed as 'lakeland', but around the area it seems there’s even MORE water than land. When exploring this region, it's almost mandatory to get waterborne, whether it be while practising your paddling skills in a canoe or by hopping aboard a historic steamboat for leisurely progress down canals and across lakes.

• On the banks of Lake Saimaa – Finland’s largest lake – Lappeenranta has encountered dramatic swings of fortune. Once famous for its scarlet-clad garrison, the 17th-century ‘Cavalry City’ was a humming trade port at the edge of the Swedish empire. In 1743 it came under Russian control, where it remained for the next 68 years, becoming an exclusive spa town. Much of the town was destroyed during the Winter and Continuation Wars, but its massive fortress and spa endure.

• The historic frontier settlement of Savonlinna is one of Finland's prettiest towns and most compelling tourist destinations. Scattered across a garland of small islands strung between Haukivesi and Pihlajavesi lakes, its major attraction is the visually dramatic Olavinlinna Castle, constructed in the 15th century and now the spectacular venue of July’s world-famous Savonlinna Opera Festival. In summer, when the lakes shimmer in the sun and operatic arias waft through the forest-scented air, the place is quite magical. In winter it's blanketed in fairy-tale-like snow, and its friendly locals can be relied upon to offer visitors a warm welcome. Punkaharju, the famous pine-covered esker (sand or gravel ridge) on the shore of Lake Saimaa, is touted in tourist brochures as ‘Finland’s national landscape’. The unspoiled landscape is extremely picturesque and great for walking, cycling and cross-country skiing. It can be reached on an easy day trip from Savonlinna, but is also an appealing place to stay.

• Vivacious and modern, Jyväskylä, western Lakeland’s main town has a wonderful waterside location, an optimistic feel and an impeccable architectural pedigree. Thanks to the work of Alvar Aalto, who started his career here, Jyväskylä (yoo-vah-skoo-lah) is of global architectural interest. At the other end of the cultural spectrum, petrolheads around the world know it as a legendary World Rally Championships venue. The large student population and lively arts scenes give the town plenty of energy and nightlife.

• Kuopio is the quintessential summery lakeside town, offering pleasure cruises on the azure water, hikes in spruce forests, tasty local fish specialities and plenty of terraces and beer gardens where you can enjoy a drink. Those visitors who are more interested in cultural diversions than the great outdoors will enjoy visiting the town's portfolio of museums; note that all of these are closed on Mondays.

• At the egress of the Pielisjoki (Joensuu means ‘river mouth’ in Finnish), North Karelia's capital is a spirited university town, with students making up almost a third of the population. Joensuu was founded by Tsar Nikolai I and became an important trading port following the 1850s completion of the Saimaa Canal. During the Winter and Continuation Wars, 23 bombing raids flattened many of its older buildings, and today most of its architecture is modern. It’s a lively place to spend some time before heading into the Karelian wilderness.

• The magnificent 347m-high Koli inspired Finland’s artistic National Romantic era and Koli was declared a national park in 1991 after an intense debate between environmentalists and landowners. The area remains relatively pristine with more than 90km of marked walking tracks and superb cross-country and downhill skiing. Summer walking and winter skiing are the twin highlights here. Myriad other activities range from boating to horse riding and dog-sledging.

NORTH-CENTRAL FINLAND

• Surrounded by wilderness, Kuhmo makes a natural base for hiking and wildlife-watching. Vast taiga forests run from here right across Siberia and harbour wolves, bears and lynx. Kuhmo is also the unofficial capital of Vienan Karjala, the Karelian heartland now in Russia, explored by artists in the movement that was crucial to the development of Finnish national identity. Most of their expeditions set off from Kuhmo, as did one of Elias Lönnrot’s, when he headed into ‘Songland’ to record the verses of bards that he later wove into the Kalevala epic. There’s a fine Kalevala resource centre in town. Hiking is the big drawcard in Kuhmo – the eastern ‘branch line’ of the UKK route passes through here – but there are plenty of other ways to get active.

• Oulu (Swedish: Uleåborg) is one of Finland’s most enjoyable cities to visit. In summer angled sunshine bathes the kauppatori (market square) in light and all seems well with the world. Locals, who appreciate daylight when they get it, crowd the terraces, and market stalls groan under the weight of Arctic berries. The city centre is spread across several islands, connected by pedestrian bridges and cycleways. Oulu is also a significant technology city; the university turns out top-notch IT graduates and the corporate parks on the city’s outskirts employ people from all over the globe. A good 3km walk or ride is from the kauppatori, across the bridge to Pikisaari and across another bridge to Nallikari, where there’s a lovely beach facing the Gulf of Bothnia and activities including kitesurfing.

• The Kuusamo/Ruka area is probably Finland’s best equipped for outdoor activities. Kuusamo is a remote frontier town 217km northeast of Oulu and close to the Russian border, while Ruka is its buzzy ski resort 30km north. Both make great activity bases. In summer, there's great walking and birdwatching as well as good mountain-biking trails. In winter it's a centre for skiing, husky-sledging, snowmobiling and more. The Ruka [webpage](http://www.ruka.fi/), is a useful place to look for activity ideas.

LAPLAND

Lapland casts a powerful spell: there's something lonely and intangible here that makes it almost supernatural. The midnight sun, the Sami peoples, the aurora borealis (Northern Lights) and roaming reindeer are all components of this sense of magic. Spanning 30% of Finland’s land area, Lapland is home to just 3% of its population. Its vast wilderness is ripe for exploring on foot, skis or sledge. The sense of space, pure air and big skies are what's most memorable here, more so than the towns.

• Situated right by the Arctic Circle, Rovaniemi is the ‘official’ terrestrial residence of Santa Claus and the capital of Finnish Lappland as well as a tourism boomtown. Its wonderful Arktikum museum is the perfect introduction to these latitudes, and Rovaniemi is a fantastic base from which to organise activities. Thoroughly destroyed by the retreating Wehrmacht in 1944, the town was rebuilt to a plan by Alvar Aalto, with the major streets in the shape of a reindeer’s head and antlers (the stadium near the bus station is the eye). Its utilitarian buildings are compensated for by its marvellous riverside location. A Culture Pass combination ticket - offering unlimited access to the three major sights – the Arktikum, Pilke Tiedekeskus and Rovaniemen Taidemuseo – is valid for a week.

• Kemi is an important deep-water harbour and heavy-industry town. It's home to two of Finland’s blockbuster winter attractions – a snow castle and an ice-breaker cruise – while summer diversions include a gem museum and a wide waterfront where you'll find a handful of kid-friendly activities at Santa's Seaside Office.

• Situated on the impressive Tornionjoki, northern Europe's longest free-flowing river, Tornio is joined to its Swedish counterpart Haparanda by short bridges. After Russia claimed the Finnish trading centre in 1809, Haparanda was founded in 1821 across the river. Upon joining the EU, the twin towns reunited as a 'Eurocity'. Cross-border shopping has boomed here in recent years, with a vast Ikea on the Swedish side and new malls on the Finnish side. Finland is an hour ahead of Sweden (meaning double celebrations on New Year's Eve).

• One of Finland's most popular ski resorts, Levi has a compact centre, top-shelf modern facilities and a large accommodation capacity. It hosts many high-profile winter events and is also a very popular destination for hiking during the ruska (autumn leaves) season. There’s enough going on here in summer that it’s not moribund, and great deals on smart modern apartments make it an excellent base for exploring western Lappland, particularly for families. Levi is actually the name of the fell, while Sirkka is the village, but most people refer to the whole place as Levi. The ski season runs from around late October to early May, depending on conditions; in December overseas charter flights descend at nearby Kittilä, bringing families in search of reindeer and a white Christmas.

• The last significant stop on Rd 21 before Kilpisjärvi and Norway, Muonio sits on the scenic Muonionjoki that forms the border between Finland and Sweden. It's a fine base for summer and winter activities, including low-key skiing at nearby Olos. Most of the town was razed during WWII, but the 1817 wooden church escaped that fate.

• Pallas-Yllästunturi National Park - Finland’s third-largest national park - forms a long, thin area running from Hetta in the north to the Ylläs ski area in the south. There is 350km of hiking trails, 80km of mountain-bike trails and 500km of cross-country-skiing trails. The main attraction is the excellent 55km trekking route from the village of Hetta to Pallastunturi in the middle of the park, where there’s a hotel, the Pallastunturi Luontokeskus nature centre and transport connections. You can continue from here to Ylläs, although there are few facilities on that section. In winter Pallastunturi Fell is a small but popular place for both cross-country and downhill skiing.

• The remote village of Kilpisjärvi, the northernmost settlement in the ‘arm’ of Finland, sits on the doorstep of both Norway and Sweden. At 480m above sea level, this small border post, wedged between the lake of Kilpisjärvi and the magnificent surrounding fells, is also the highest village in Finland. The main reason to venture out here is for brilliant summer and ruska (autumn colour) trekking or spring cross-country skiing. Kilpisjärvi consists of two small settlements 5km apart – the main (southern) centre has most services; the northern knot has the hiking centre and trailheads.

• Sodankylä is the main service centre for one of Europe’s least populated areas, with a density of just 0.75 people per square kilometre. It’s at the junction of Lapland's two main highways and makes a decent staging post between Rovaniemi and the north; even if you’re just passing through, stop to see the humble but exquisite wooden church Vanha Kirkko. A contrast is provided by the high-tech observatory Aurora House just outside town, an important collection point for data on the atmosphere and the aurora borealis.

• The bustling, touristy village of Saariselkä (Sami: Suolocielgi), 250km north of the Arctic Circle, is more resort than community, as it's basically a collection of enormous hotels and holiday cottages, but it's a great spot to get active. It’s a major winter destination for Christmassy experiences, sledge safaris and skiing, and in summer it serves as the main base for trekkers heading into the awesome Saariselkä Wilderness. Saariselkä bristles with things to do year-round. Things are most active in winter, with numerous snowy excursions, such as husky- and reindeer-sledging, snowmobiling and ice-fishing trips, organised by the many companies in town.

• The tiny village of Inari (Sami: Anár) is Finland's most significant Sami centre and the ideal starting point to learn something of Sami culture. Home to the wonderful Siida museum and Sajos (cultural centre and the seat of the Finnish Sami parliament), it also has a string of superb handicrafts shops. It’s a great base for forays into Lemmenjoki National Park and the Kevo Strict Nature Reserve. The village sits on Lappland’s largest lake, Inarijärvi, a spectacular body of water with more than 3000 islands in its 1084-sq-km area.

• Lemmenjoki (Sami: Leammi) is Finland’s largest national park, covering a remote wilderness area between Inari and Norway. This is prime hiking territory, with desolate wilderness rivers, rough landscapes and the mystique of gold, as solitary prospectors slosh away with their pans in the middle of nowhere. Boat trips on the river allow more leisurely exploration of the park. The launchpad is Njurgulahti, an Inari Sami community by the river; it’s often simply referred to as Lemmenjoki.