Outspoken, adventurous, proud, and audacious: BELGRADE is by no means a 'pretty' capital, but its gritty exuberance makes it one of the most happening cities in Europe. It is here where the Sava River meets the Danube (Dunav), and old-world culture gives way to new-world nightlife. Grandiose coffee houses, quirky sidewalk ice-creameries, and smoky dens all find a rightful place along Knez Mihailova, a lively pedestrian boulevard flanked by historical buildings all the way to the ancient Kalemegdan Citadel, the crown of the city. The cobblestoned strip of Skadarska east of Trg Republike was the bohemian heartland at the turn of the 20th century; local artistes and dapper types still gather in its legion of cute restaurants and cafes. The once-derelict, now-dapper Savamala creative district is Belgrade’s hip HQ, with bars, clubs and cultural centers that morph into achingly cool music/dance venues come sundown. Dress codes and attitudes are far more relaxed here than in other parts of the city.

NOVI SAD is a chipper town with all the spoils and none of the stress of the big smoke. Locals sprawl in pretty parks and outdoor cafes, and laneway bars along pedestrian thoroughfare Zmaj Jovina, which stretches from the town square (Trg Slobode) to Dunavska street, pack out nightly. Novi Sad plays host to the annual eclectic EXIT festival – the largest in southeast Europe - with an annual tally of over 200k merrymakers.

Fruška Gora is an 80km stretch of rolling hills where monastic life has continued since 35 monasteries were built between the 15th and 18th centuries to safeguard Serbian culture and religion from the Turks. With your own vehicle you can flit freely between the 16 remaining monasteries; otherwise, ask about tours at tourist offices in Novi Sad and Sremski Karlovci. Public transport gets you from Novi Sad to villages within the park, from where you can walk between sights.

Sugar-spun art nouveau marvels, a laid-back populace, and a delicious sprinkling of Serbian and Hungarian flavors make the quaint town of SUBOTICA a worthy day trip or stopover.

NIš is a lively city of curious contrasts, where Roma in horse-drawn carriages trot alongside new cars, and posh cocktails are sipped in antiquated alleyways. Niš was settled in pre-Roman times and flourished during the time of local-boy-made-good Emperor Constantine (AD 280–337). Explore the Niš Fortress and the Tower of Skulls.

DON'T MISS

• Novi Pazar is the cultural center of the Raška/Sandžak region, with a large Muslim population. Turkish coffee, cuisine, and customs abound, yet some idyllic Orthodox sights are in the vicinity: this was the heartland of the Serbian medieval state.

• One of the most sacred sites in Serbia, Unesco-listed Studenica was established in the 1190s by the founder of the Serbian empire (and future saint) Stefan Nemanja and developed by his sons Vukan, Stefan, and Rastko (St Sava). Active monastic life was cultivated by Sava and continues today, though this thriving little community doesn't mind visitors.

• Djavolja Varoš (Devil’s Town) in Serbia's deep south, is a trippy cluster of 202 natural stone pyramids looming eerily over bright red, highly acidic mineral streams. According to local whispers, the towers – which teeter between 2m and 15m in height and are topped with creepy volcanic ‘heads’ – were formed after guests at an incestuous wedding were petrified by an offended god.

• Kopaonik National Park - as well as the ski-resort in the Kopaonik Mountain in southern Serbia. Kopaonik is the major ski resort of Serbia, with a total of 23 ski lifts. A national park spread over 118.1 km2 (45.6 sq mi), Kopaonik has a rich historical heritage