Botswana by Road: Our Self-Drive African Safari Diary
- 8 hours ago
- 10 min read
🚗 From Gaborone to Victoria Falls – By Janine & Trevor
So much has been written, filmed and photographed about Botswana, and it must be one of the most unique diversity of landscapes in the world with everything from arid desert, vast savannas, wetlands and majestic wildlife. Navigating these landscapes in your self-driven vehicle is what makes Botswana all the more captivating.
For us, seeing the animals in the wild is an awesome and humbling part of it, but what we really had our hearts set on was venturing into the heart of the Okavango Delta in the west, and to the vast white sand and salt pans towards the east.
If you're planning a self-drive safari for the first time, we hope these stories and notes help you prepare—and get excited.
🗺️ Route Map: Botswana Self-Drive African Safari Highlights
📍 Entry 1: Gaborone – “Gateway to Botswana's Wilderness”
“Border crossing was surprisingly smooth—shoes disinfected, permit paid, and no one confiscated our avocados!”
We crossed into Botswana at the Kopfontein border post, and settled just outside Mokolodi Nature Reserve, about 20 minutes from Gaborone. It was a soft landing—plenty of shops, ATMs, and friendly advice from locals.
🛂 Border essentials:
Credit cards are accepted for road permits & 3rd-party insurance (cost 260 Pula).
Vehicle ownership/rental documents.
Checkpoints are strict on animal disease control, so tyres and shoe soles are disinfected on mats at the checkpoint.
No meat or fresh produce allowed across—eat it or declare it.
If using social media, DriveBots Facebook group offers useful real-time traveller support.
🔧 Before heading north:
Fill up with fuel and drinking water.
Refill your tanks or bottles with filtered water from refill stations or Spar supermarkets for 1 Pula p/litre (in all big towns).
Buy a local SIM (Mascom, Orange or BTC).
Starlink is licensed in Botswana for international roaming and worked unrestricted for us.
Spar, Shoprite and Choppies supermarkets offer everything you need.
We stayed at Mokolodi Backpackers, an urban jungle with shady campsites pool, hot showers, and fully equipped kitchen shared with tented camp.
📍 Entry 2: Francistown – “Tarmac & Twilight”
“We swore we’d never drive after dark. Then did it anyway. Whoops.”
The A1 from Gaborone to Francistown is fairly good, with small towns along the way to shop for food essentials. It may be called the “major highway”, but it’s not quite, and you always need to be alert for wildlife crossings. It’s a good transition into Botswana driving conditions, occasional potholes, erratic local drivers, and plenty of wildlife warnings.
🛣️ Drive notes:
iOverlander is the best camp finder with well-travelled peer reviews.
Always ask ahead about facilities, as many Botswana camps require you to be self-sufficient.
We overnighted at one of the few, just north of town, Woodlands Camp & Lodge.
Keep speeds moderate—even the A1 has hidden dips and occasional animals crossing.
Avoid night driving—it’s illegal in national parks and risky elsewhere.
🛒 Supplies tip:
Quite a few fuel and water refill store stops here.
Francistown’s malls have ATMs, food courts, and camping gear (try Pick n Pay or Builders Express).
Credit cards are widely accepted in Botswana, but always have US$, Pula or South African Rands in cash for remote camps.
ATMs are very reliable for Pulas and are in most small towns; the ABSA bank branch would accept our US$ cash exchange (at a high rate).
📍 Entry 3: Kubu Island – Sacred Salt & Stone
“We could see the curvature of the Earth. That kind of view does something to your soul.”
This is where Botswana started to feel otherworldly. After deep sandy tracks and a horizon of shimmering salt, Kubu Island rose like a fossilised dream. Baobabs standing in solitude. Silence absolute.
🚙 Drive essentials:
4x4 highly recommended, even in dry season.
Deflate tyres (we dropped to 1.6 bar) for traction in the sand.
Use Tracks4Africa app or a GPS with waypoints—no signage.
Book in advance via Khama Rhino Sanctuary or DWNP (Le)khubu office in Mmashumo town.
Remember to check in at Lekhubu office in the pans if you already have a permit, or in town.
🏕️ Camping logistics:
Only camp in 1 of the 13 designated camp sites, area conservation is key.
No toilets, water, or shade—bring everything, and remove all waste when you leave.
Camp at least 100m from baobab clusters.
🛟 Safety tip:
Don’t attempt in the rainy season (Dec–March)—you will get stuck.
Have enough fuel and water, the pans are remote and the horizons endless, with few other tourists.
📍 Entry 4: The Pans – Among the Ancient Baobabs
“We camped beneath baobab trees older than most civilizations. And did laundry. A perfect contrast.”
After Kubu’s intensity, we needed something grounded. Planet Baobab had cold beer, the best pool, and campsites under behemoth baobab trees. And Elephants Sands in Nata is the watering hole camp hotspot of the entire region.
💡 Good to know:
Decent Wi-Fi all around.
A really good restaurant, funky bar and the Kalahari’s best pool setting.
If you are here between May-July (after wet season), you might just be fortunate enough to witness the spectacle of large herds of zebra in migration.
The legendary Meno a Kwena or Jack’s Camp is nearby for upscale safari options (if you’re celebrating).
🧺 Overland tip:
A perfectly positioned camp between the 2 largest pans, Makgadikgadi & Nxai Pans - so a long day trip into the pans is possible.
The closest shopping / fuel stop before entering the Pans is Letlhakane in the south, or much further north in Nata.
Staying at Elephant Sands in Nata is the most popular camp/lodge in this region, and it has an exceptional watering hole - just be prepared for alot more tourists in overland bus groups.
The camp's shop sells quite a few camping essentials.
Do the bush/safari walk at Plant Baobab – fantastic if you are interested in plant life in the wild.
📍 Entry 5: Maun & Moremi – Okavango Awakening
“We watched elephants drink under mopane trees while frying up eggs. That’s our kind of luxury.”
Maun is chaotic, dusty, and wonderful. It serves as your launchpad into the Delta. This is the last reliable stop for water, fuel, groceries, and mechanical checks before you venture into the bushland.
Moremi is relatively easily navigable in the dry season, but it's best if you have driven sandy tracks before. We did a few loops deeper north-west towards some of the concession area boundaries and Delta channels - areas that are so remote in their untouched beauty. We will access the Okavango Panhandle later in the trip from Caprivi Strip or Linyanti up north, and not from Moremi. Access involves 4x4 drive, park and boat transfer along the channels. Moremi boat trips are super expensive.
🛠️ Prep here:
Fuel in Maun (Shell on Airport Rd), tyre checks, spares. With additional litres of fuel recommended.
Carry enough filtered drinking water from refill stations, Delta Rain or Maun Waterworks.
Maun has a large mall with Woolworths, Spar and Delta Meat Deli for high-quality food.
🛎️ Book early:
DWNP campsites (e.g., South Gate, Third Bridge) fill months ahead.
We used Xomae and SKL Campsites for private bookings online.
Kwalate Safaris have booking offices at Moremi south gate to book in low season.
🦓 Moremi tips:
Don’t underestimate deep water crossings.
Download offline maps (we used Maps.me + Tracks4Africa). Offline Google Maps is also surprisingly well mapped for some off roads, but ONLY as a secondly map.
Pay park fees for both arrival and exit dates—even if leaving early in the morning.
No night driving or driving off designated tracks.
You cannot access private concession areas by vehicle, only via dug-out canoe (mokoro), boat or light aircraft transfer, and you need to have a reservation at one of the luxury safari lodges in the concession area.
Depending on water levels, there are quite a few Mokoro boat trips on offer via tour operators or lodges. Khwai concession area/North gate being the most convenient but expensive.
📍 Entry 6: Khwai Concession – The Wild One
“Hyenas circled us at dusk. We stayed in the rooftop tent and whispered over crackers.”
Khwai was intense—no fences, no guards, pure wilderness. We camped at Mbudi, run by the Khwai Community Development Trust. The soundscape was unforgettable: hippos snorting, lions coughing, crickets in stereo.
📍 Camping tips:
iOverlander is the best camp finder with well-travelled peer reviews, when remote.
Book by WhatsApp or in person at the community office.
Campsites are rustic, so you need to be fully self-sufficient.
Most community camps have solar showers and flush toilets in communal areas, which you can only walk to during the day.
Support local guides—they offer brilliant night drives and safari walks.
💰 Money tip:
Concession campsites usually require cash (US$ or Pula).
Expect little-to-no local network reception and unstable Wi-Fi from camps, if any. Solution: Starlink
📍 Entry 7: Savuti – The Remote Heart
“The sand tracks were thick, slow, and unrelenting. But the leopard made it worth every minute.”
Savuti sits between Khwai and Chobe River and is famous for predators. It’s remote, raw, and pretty far from help—come prepared.
🛞 Critical logistics:
Carry enough diesel for 400+ km.
No fuel or water between Maun and Kasane.
We aired down tyres to 1.5 bar and averaged 20 km/h in sections.
There are fewer low-mid range camps, so daily costs including conservancy fees are high, starting at $80-90 p/day (depending on nationality).
🛑 Checkpoints:
Stop at every gate and show booking confirmation.
Bring printed DWNP permits.
Credit cards widely accepted in NP, but always have cash.
📍 Entry 8: Chobe National Park & River – River and Rhythm
“We now enter the vast Elephant kingdom, that is Chobe. And after lots of driving we camp along the Chobe riverfront and will slow down for a few days—camp chores, reading, and basil from the garden.”
The landscape changes vastly from the Delta, to Chobe National Park and then into Chobe’s forested reserve. Muchenje camp is nestled outside the western gate of Chobe along the Chobe riverfront and was a peaceful end to our long sandy stretch. Monkeys, birds, and the calm of a riverside rest.
🛞 Critical logistics:
Chobe is more accessible to self-driving tourists who combine it with a visit to Victoria Falls. You see a few more overland vehicles fully kitted, if ever vehicle support is needed.
Exiting the Chobe NP into Chobe Forest Reserve, there's a coexistence between people and animals, so still expect to see wildlife close to towns.
🛁 Camp life:
Camps along the riverfront are more developed, so really nice private or shared bathroom/kitchen areas.
Muchenje has its own vegetable garden to pick and buy from, and a small shop for other basic food.
Walking along the river is restricted to walking with guides – remember it's all unfenced forest.
Be prepared for mosquitoes once the sun sets.
📍 Entry 9: Kasane – Gateway to the Falls
“Crocodile pizza sounded better than it tasted. Still—we had to try it once!”
Kasane is a bit more comfortable. You’ll find ATMs, lodges, river cruises, and shuttles to Victoria Falls. We parked the van and crossed to Vic Falls by minibus.
🧺 Overland tip:
Driving into Kasane following the Chobe riverfront, avoid re-entering Chobe NP (park fees) and drive the A33 Transit Rd.
Many lodges along the riverfront, a few to recommend are Chobe Safari Lodge & Thebe River Lodge with great sundowners and river access.
🚐 Falls transit tips:
Avoid Zim’s excessive vehicle border fees of $130 by booking a shuttle from Kasane (~$25-30 pp).
It’s a 1hr – 1h 30min trip to Vic Falls, including border crossing logistics.
Bring US$ for Zimbabwe visa on arrival (~$30–$55 depending on nationality).
This Kazungula border crossing uniquely intersects 4 countries (Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe, with high tourist volumes flocking to and from Botswana lodges and Vic Falls. But it is a very rudimentary, unstructured process, so be patient and just roll with it :)
📍 Entry 10: Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe side) – The Smoke That Thunders
This was the exclamation point on our Botswana chapter. The falls thundered, the mist danced, and the edge of the earth felt… very close.
🧺 Zim vs Zambia
There’s often debate about which side of this Natural Wonder of the World gives you the best views – well, considering that ¾ of the Falls are on the Zimbabwe side, we think the best vantage points are in fact in Zimbabwe.
But do not miss the Zambian side for a very different perspective of nature's marvel and get a wider view of the Main Falls. We could not miss seeing both sides, which meant a walk across the Zimbabwe border to Livingston, Zambia. It’s all very easy, and just means you are walking as locals do, commuting daily between trading border towns.
To cross the border, take a taxi or walk as we did. It's a simple passport checkpoint allowing you into the Zambian Falls area. Another reason to walk is to cross the iconic Victoria Bridge that connects the 2 countries, spending time there watching or bungee jumping yourself. Just 2km past the bridge is the entry point to Zambia’s Vic Falls. This being high-water season is incredible on the Zimbabwe side, however from the Zambian side, views are totally obscured by the overwhelming water sprays.
The Zambian experience is more adrenaline-focused. It's where thrill seekers play and swim in Devil’s Pools on the edge of the main falls, bungee jumping, zip lining, and white water rafting.
The sheer magnitude of the Falls has to be imagined beyond what the eye can see. You could opt for the aerial helicopter view for a “wider angle” lens, if that’s within your budget.
🎟️ Tips for first-time visitors:
April–June is peak high-water season, and the Zim side is majestic at this time.
Ponchos help, but don’t prevent total drenching – bring your own or buy at the entrance.
Bring waterproof bags for cameras & phones.
Bring dry shoes to change into, even waterproof shoes will be soaked. Thankfully, clothes dry quickly in that humidity.
It’s more interesting to walk across rather than taxi across the border checkpoint to the Zambian side, and spend time on the Victoria Bridge where all the activities happen.
During the low-water season in Zambia, head down the footpaths to the base of the Falls, and dare yourself to swim in Devil’s Pools.
"Nothing can prepare you for Africa's Victoria Falls and what you take away from being in her midst.”
🗺️ Route Recap
Gaborone → Francistown → Kubu Island → Planet Baobab → Maun → Moremi → Khwai → Savuti → Muchenje → Kasane → Victoria Falls
🌄 Final Thoughts
A self-driving safari through Botswana isn’t always easy—but it’s definitely worth it. It’s about trusting your instincts, respecting the land, and surrendering to adventure. We left dust-covered, slightly rattled, and forever changed. <Janine - I love this final thought, just as it is - besides I think I have taken enough liberties above with all my additions :) :) :) >
Unless otherwise noted, all photos in this post are used by courtesy of Janine Dindar
