The poster child of Montenegrin tourism, Budva – with its atmospheric Old Town and numerous beaches – certainly has a lot to offer. Yet the child has moved into difficult adolescence, fuelled by rampant development that has leeched much of the charm from the place. Still, it’s the buzziest place on the coast so if you’re in the mood to party, this is the place to be. Budva's best feature and the star attraction is the Stari Grad (Old Town) – a mini-Dubrovnik with marbled streets and Venetian walls rising from the clear waters below. Much of it was ruined by two earthquakes in 1979 but it has since been completely rebuilt and now houses more shops, bars, and restaurants than residences.

Wedged between brooding mountains and a moody corner of the bay, the dramatically beautiful town of Kotor combines historic grace with vibrant street life. From a distance, Kotor's sturdy ancient walls are barely discernible from the mountain's grey hide but at night they're spectacularly lit, reflecting in the water to give the town a golden halo. Within those walls lie labyrinthine marbled lanes where churches, shops, bars, and restaurants surprise you on hidden piazzas. You'll soon know every corner, as the town is quite small, but there are plenty of churches to pop into and many coffees to be drunk in the shady squares.

Directly behind Kotor is Mt Lovćen (1749m), the black mountain that gave Crna Gora (Montenegro) its name (crna/negro means 'black' and gora/monte means 'mountain' in Montenegrin and Italian respectively). The Lovćen National Park's 6220 hectares are crisscrossed with well-marked hiking paths.

Nestling in the foothills of Mt Lovćen, the old capital of Cetinje is an odd mix of the former capital and overgrown village where single-story cottages and stately mansions share the same street.

Looking like a chunk of Venice that has floated down the Adriatic and anchored itself onto the Bay of Kotor, Perast hums with melancholic memories of the days when it was rich and powerful. Despite its diminutive size, it boasts 16 churches and 17 formerly grand palazzi. Just offshore from Perast are two peculiarly picturesque islands. The smaller, Sveti Ðorđe (St George), rises from a natural reef and houses a Benedictine monastery shaded by cypresses. Boats ferry people to its big sister, Gospa od Škrpjela (Our-Lady-of-the-Rocks), which was artificially created in the 15th century around a rock where an image of the Madonna was found.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS:

• Herceg Novi - A bustling waterfront promenade runs below a small fortified center, with cafes and churches set on sunny squares.

• Sveti Stefan - Gazing down on this impossibly picturesque walled island village provides one of the biggest 'wow' moments on the entire Adriatic coast.

• Ulcinj - Minarets and a hulking walled town dominate the skyline, providing a dramatic background for the holidaymakers on the beaches.

• Podgorica -The nation's modern capital has a buzzy café scene, lots of green space, and some excellent galleries.

• Lake Skadar National Park - The Balkans' largest lake is dotted with island monasteries and provides an important sanctuary for migrating birds.

• Biogradska Gora National Park - Virgin forest set around a pretty lake.